Seoul Through My Lens: A Weekend of Wanderlust and Frustration

I don’t get up to Seoul that often these days—maybe once or twice a year. It’s a sprawling, chaotic beast of a city, filled to the brim with tourists and wannabe influencers all running the same tired playbook. Yes, we get it—your CU Mart ramyeon, hazelnut-banana coffee, and film camera artfully arranged on a plastic table are pure aesthetic gold. But that’s not the Seoul I see.

For me, Seoul is a place I get called up to visit, like a distant relative I barely tolerate. It reminds me of Toronto—cold in the winter, overpriced hotels, and way too many people for my liking. But, to its credit, it does offer some damn good cityscapes and a playground for most things photography related.

This time, my trip was supposed to be about a contract signing. Spoiler alert: that didn’t happen. The company pulled a switcheroo, and I was left in a full-blown panic attack, pacing around the city, trying to recalibrate. Eventually, I passed out in a hotel room overlooking the endless sprawl of neon and concrete.

The Photographer’s Nightmare

That evening, coffee in hand, I stepped out into the city, only to realize I had made the cardinal sin of photography—I left all my memory cards at home, neatly stacked next to my computer. Fantastic. But this is Korea, where convenience is king, so I was just a few steps away from a store stocked with everything I needed. Crisis averted.

With a freshly formatted card, I made my way toward Gwanghwamun, where protests had shut down the street from City Hall to the main plaza. It wasn’t quite the spectacle of the Park impeachment protests, but it made for some compelling shots. Still, my real mission was to capture the Seoul skyline from the Seoullo Overpass during blue hour.

After weaving through the crowds and navigating the subway like a seasoned local, I found my spot. I wasn’t alone—a young Korean kid was there too, camera in hand, waiting for the light to fade.

I played around with a few different compositions before my stomach overruled my artistic ambitions. Time to eat.

We both snapped away in silence and then we both made our way back to the station. He mustered up enough courage on the way back to ask me for my instagram and I could see the wave of relief wash over him as I replied in Korean. As he wandered off, I tucked my camera back into my backpack and headed for nourishment.

Photography tip: If you’re shooting from Seoullo, look for the cutouts in the glass panels. They let you shoot without annoying reflections.

The 5 Guys Letdown

My craving for a proper burger led me to Five Guys at Seoul Station. A solid idea in theory—until I saw the line snaking around the building. The price was steep, and to add insult to injury, there wasn’t a single seat available. I wandered around Seoul Station like a lost soul, looking for a quiet corner to inhale my now lukewarm, greasy bag of disappointment. Eventually, I surrendered and took it back to my hotel room.

The Bukchon Letdown

My patience was running at an all time low as I realized that none of the subway lines actually connected to the station that was right in front of my hotel. I had to go 3 stops in the opposite direction. navigate through Jongno3-ga to transfer lines and then go 2 stops back to my hotel.

My meal was in a sad state when I returned to my room and so was I. No contract signed, my body was aching from head to toe and all I could do was wolf down my overpriced burger and soggy fries. At least, I was no longer on a “reserve list” and I was now employed at the HQ but in a different city.

The next morning, I was up early, coffee in hand, determined to capture the sunrise at Bukchon Hanok Village. Here’s the thing about Bukchon—it’s a tourist magnet, a battleground for influencers desperately vying for internet stardom. But I had a plan: sneak in before the crowds.

Turns out, Seoul had a plan too.

Sundays are now closed for tourists.

Did I know that? Nope. But the ajummas in official-looking vests sure made it clear, ushering out anyone who dared to step foot in the alleys. Signs plastered everywhere warned that the area was off-limits. I could’ve tried to be sneaky, but I’m not a complete jerk, so I turned back.

Travel tip: Seoul is cracking down on tourists in Bukchon. There are curfews, restricted access days, and increasing limitations on where you can go. Plan accordingly because they will fine you if you break these rules.

A Shift in Plans

With Bukchon out of the picture, I headed toward Ikseon-dong, a newer hot spot packed with cafes and restaurants. By the time I arrived, lines were already forming outside the trendy bakeries. Not in the mood to wait, I made my way back toward City Hall, hunting for coffee and a quiet place to regroup.

I wandered through Myeong-dong and Namdaemun Market, snapping a few shots along the way. But after a weekend of sensory overload, it was time to head home.

Before leaving, I made my patriotic duty stop at the Seoul Tim Hortons—because Canada runs through my veins—and then promptly passed out in my KTX seat back to Ulsan.

Travel tip: If you’ve got some extra time, book a first-class seat on the slower KTX route. Sometimes, the discount makes it close to the price of a standard ticket, but you get a single seat, free snacks, and bottled water. Worth it.

The Aftermath

Back home, I dumped my gear, kicked off my shoes, and collapsed. Seventeen thousand steps a day, a backpack full of camera gear, and a weekend of dodging tourists had taken its toll. But scrolling through my shots, I had to admit—it was worth it.

Seoul may be a mess of influencers and overpriced burgers, but if you know where to look, you’ll find the real city. Just don’t forget your memory cards.