Lanterns, Silence, and The Small Joys of Being Alive at Bulguksa

It’s that time of year again in Korea—the temples are dressed to the nines. Cloaked in rainbow lanterns and steeped in a kind of spiritual theatre that’s equal parts reverence and rock show. Lantern Festival season. And while the average person might head to the Instagramer/ Lantern inferno that is Samgwangsa in Busan, elbowing influencers out of the way for […]

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No Sunrise, No Problem

I woke up at 4:30 a.m.—not because I had to, but because some restless part of me still believes in fire. The kind that burns across the sky in brilliant pinks and oranges, the kind of sunrise that makes people stop dead in their tracks and remember, “Oh right… I’m alive, and I live on a goddamn planet spinning through […]

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